Canon Lens

Canon Lens
What is a canon lens good for a study?

I have a Canon Digital Rebel Xti. I have a home studio with alien bees flash-heads. I am currently working with the kit lens (18-55mm f/4.5-5.6), but I am pretty sure that is usually cut with a professional … I was thinking either a prime number of 50 mm f / 1,4 / 85 mm f/1.8 or 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS lens.

As fhotoace said, I personally do not see what would be particularly bad in the kit lens working in a studio environment? Most times when I'm working on a study of "pro" with the environment I strobe shooting at around f / 8 or less in the first place, which is very fine on the 18-55. Not only because of other gearheads online discount complaining corner sharpness wide open to 18mm. There is no generic "best target" for a studio environment. What is your most common theme? If you are taking pictures of clocks and products, for example, would not necessarily use the same type of lens as if they were portraits in general. If you are taking mainly portraits, must take into account several things including 1) development of the desired subject's head (and shoulders, full body, group portraits) 2) working distance available (how much space you can put between you and the subject) and 3) other artistic qualities needed in the image (blurred backgrounds out, for example, flat perspectives photograph frames). Something else to take into account, especially if you are the transition to digital film is the crop factor of 1.6x the XTi, a 50mm lens effectively becomes a lens 80mm, and so on options. With this in mind, let's look at some. 50 mm lens f/1.4 ($ 290, Link 1) would be a good "general purpose lens" – I use it for half body shots, and (sometimes) the head and shoulders shots, and where with enough working distance shots, the whole body. Wide open spaces to blur the background. Also available is the 50 mm f / 1.2 for soft background bokeh impressive, but considerably more expensive at $ 1600. 85 mm f/1.8 lens ($ 315, link 2) is a specialized lens, usually I use it for head and shoulder shots only, but I suppose if you had enough working distance between you and that subjct could use it for half-body shots. I found this goal of providing superior picture quality to my 50mm f/1.8 with a recommendation yf/1.4 To see the chromatic aberration and purple fringing in backlit subjects. Like the 50mm lens, lens af/1.2 are available for about $ 1600. If you going to go for a zoom, then you have a few things to consider: get a zoom with an aperture value close to the prime numbers above will cost a lot more money, and can not offer as good image quality. The "All Star" this training approach seems to be the 24-70mm f/2.8 at a hefty $ 1100 (Link 3). 28-135 lens would well for use, but a takeover of all trades "so to speak. It offers a decent, but the aperture range are not very useful if you want to hide the background, and is not as useful (if at all) in a studio environment. The 50/85 combo would be much better. If the study is taking pictures of the products (watches, paintings, jewelry, etc), then your bet will be prime numbers more favorable. With the exception of ultra-wides, primes (especially in the range of 50 mm) provide a large "flat" view photos with any of the angular distortion you'll find a zoom, not to mention the better picture quality. To top drawings, macros will be king. When I was shooting pictures for a gallery for insurance purposes, the 50mm f/2.5 macro ($ 240, Link 4) was very good in terms of work distance and perspective. Also consider the lens as the 100mm macro f/2.8 ($ 435, Link 5) for closeup photos with great detail. Or, if you can not afford a macro or am only photography studio into the foreground, looks on a set of extension tubes Kenko companies like that are affordable (~ $ 175) and shorten the distance focusing on their lenses. Along with a cousin, you can get good pictures. Again, without knowing what they're shooting or what your budget is that I would advise hard to get the combo of 50 1.4/85 1.8. Yes, you may need to change lenses during the sessions, but you will be in an environment where the dust is probably not going to be a factor, and most of the time the subject will not complain suggestion. If I may make another, if not, you PocketWizard modules seek to control their flashes. How then to carry the PC around the cable with me for so long been a liberating experience. You only need two more than likely, one as a transmitter, one in head for a moment to receive, then set other heads to turn off optically head first, and must be defined. They are about $ 190 per transmitter (Link 6) Good luck, hope this helps.

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