Macro Reverse Adapter

Macro Reverse Adapter
Reverse Lens adapters and extension tubes?

Well, I'm sort of a novice with all this … So I'll be able to use an adapter reversing the extension tubes on my Canon 350D and my 58 mm lens? Which is better for macro shots? Are they worth getting? How much is paid them? How much difference do they do compared to the normal lens? I am a student, so I really can not afford to get a proper macro lens. Me would like your opinion of any of the adoptive reverse and / or extension tubes. Thank you ..

Let's start by clarifying that the purpose of any such things is so that you can focus the camera on issues are closer to the front of the lens than is possible with the ordinary lens. And before jumping to a conclusion about what is the best, "you really need to decide how close you want to be able to concentrate. It is customary in the macro world to define closeness in terms the reproduction ratio. 1:1 means that you are focusing at a distance such that the individual who has the focus will be captured on film (or digital sensor) full size. That said, the simplest and least expensive is to use lenses, sometimes called 'diopters (because the force is measured on a Optical Drive call a diopter, like eye glasses). A slow approach will cost almost as much as a couple of latte at Starbucks is great. They have the advantage of which do not absorb all the light, so do not affect exposure. However, unless you go for really top quality (Nikon has some exceptional close-up lenses) can introduce changes in their image. If this is important depends on you. You can easily find on the market after the lens close-to brand valuations diopter of 1 and 3. I also voted 5 to see a few, and Edmund Scientific sells a lens not mounted (it has to provide a set of rings mounted on the camera) that is classified 10. In practice, 1 and 3 are the only ones that make sense. You can not get to 1:1 with this lens, but you can get much closer than with a naked lens .. If you need to get closer, you should really be looking for options that provide better optical performance (less distortion). The objectives for exercising macro and tubes the same basic function. The lens of a camera is focused on moving further from the film (or digital sensor). The ability to focus on objects that are close to the camera (and therefore small) depends on the distance of the lens can be moved. The lenses called 'macro' to focus the mounts that allow them moved further away than ordinary lenses. Traditionally, they could also have had more corrections to the enhanced optical performance when focusing closely but do not automatically assume that this is the case of the ordinary "macro zoom" lenses. The typical macro can zoom down to 1:3 to 1:2 range, but can not go all the way to 1:1. Canon may have specialized (read expensive) macro lenses that can give a reproduction ratio of 1:1. Extension tubes do The same basic function to insert them between the camera body and lens. Obviously, the extension tubes come in fixed lengths (usually come in groups three that can be used in various combinations) and when they are in place, you lose the ability to focus at infinity. Extension tubes also absorb light – if you insert an extension tube which is equal in length to the lens focal length, will have to increase exposure by two stops. The extension tubes have the advantage that they are usually a bit less expensive than a macro lens. In addition, the optical performance with extension tubes is controlled by the objective – not to insert any additional glass in the optical path. Extension tubes are a practical option if you want to work in the 1:1 range, or perhaps even a little closer. You seek extension tubes allow you to maintain the ability to auto exposure camera and lens. By the way, at least one aftermarket manufacturer offers a tele with a removable lens cell. This can be used as a tele (to simulate a more lens focal length) or an extension tube single length. One thing that is concerned with any of these solutions is the working distance – near a reproduction ratio of 1:1, the front of the lens is about the subject. One of the attractive features of the tubes is that you can use one more goal for more working distance. My favorite target is a tube 100mm lens originally intended for the portrait. Finally, the question of reversing rings. This is probably not a good answer though Reversing rings are probably the cheapest of the options identified. A reversing ring is just a ring of brass or aluminum with male discussions on both sides. A set of threads of the screws on the lens of his camera, while the screws other women in the threads in a second lens. The best arrangement is to use a longer focal length lens when the main lens (eg 100 mm), and then mount a lens focal length Conversely cuts at its end. This is a solution that you can easily get more than 1:1 with reasonable optical quality. But obviously, if you do not money for a second lens, after buying the ring back off will not accomplish much. Endpoint: when working in macro, you want to disable the autofocus functions in the camera. You can focus manually, but a better solution is to focus on all the camera movement toward or away from the subject

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