Mount Ring Canon

Mount Ring Canon
Canon S3 no good for astrophotography?

Is there a camera T-Ring special adapters or something for mounting on a telescope? Any person and try this?

[Edited] I am learning to use the Canon 40D, and I have the following problems: 1) jiggle Monte / wind / footprints near I mess up my telescope photos. 2) The approach is real pain, because the light level is too low for the camera to display on the screen and the viewfinder is too small to focus correctly. I have to use a guiding star for checking focus and then shot back. Then maybe the display shows one or two stars, when in 1600 ISO. Get a backup plan for the approach, ie as parfocal installation can be configured without the cam, and just connect without having to change anything. (See first answer) You can get what is probably a 58 mm adapter or Scopetronics Canon and others, $ 19. Then add the ring step to t-thread, $ 31. A digi-t allows you to connect to existing 58 mm direct eye for $ 60. You also do not have the ability to RAW format, unless you use the hacks available on the Internet, check CHDK. RAW help you make the most of your CCD. You are limited to 15 seconds of exposure. This is not enough for nebulae, and makes use of filters almost O3/SII/Ha/Hb out of the question because the image is too dark. I'm finding that I can get good photos with 40D 30-500 seconds. Another alternative is to get the shaft clamp about the scope of which provides a 1/4-20 mounting thread that holds the camera. Disadvantage of this is: a) You have to deal with chromatic aberration (Changes color) of S3 incorporated into the objectives b) You may have to use the optical zoom function to get the rod of the cartoons (too CCD Camera large or too far from the eye). Scopetronics has a solution for this. It was not too bad for my G7 (25mm CCD) and 50 mm eyepiece, but most areas have eye much smaller. Or you can spend more money on a lens 0.66x reducer, can help too. C) is necessary to align the camera precisely the point 3 axes in the center of the eyepiece. Off by a mm, and not get everything. Then you have to be aligned in the axis of the scope. Remove the camera to look into the eyepiece, and you may have to do the alignment again. D) You may need to make your camera to manual focus, because most of the CAM can not smell the light -5 mag. My G7 + Manual needed to be in macro mode, about 20 cm "approach to work, to shoot the moon. With the above configuration of the G-7, Luna great shots, except of the yellow / blue shift. A major advantage of pocket cams are the ability to make video. If you can hook Saturn, and keep focused, you can use 1 / 60 video or so, and the pile that. Apparently less than 30 minutes of video will make a stunning image. I have not tried it yet, but others have proven to work well. If you get any real (D) SLR, you only need an adapter Ta-your-houses-place, and possibly a piece of mouth-to-T adapter, each about or less $ 20. Advantage here is jiggle, without sensitivity to light from the side, and the photos much better because of the lack of glass which are not needed between the telescope and CCD. CCD is also a better quality of Digital Slr. On the other hand, competition for quality in the sub-DSLR market is driving faster than the standard SLR can move digital. your camera can also ISO 3200, although I do not recommend it for the star, it's good to see if you point to something you want, and then can use a lower ISO settings to avoid amplification of noise in the CCD. Be careful with your lens hit the scope of the lens when you are away – hopefully the adapter does not allow this, but usually my G7 is turned off when it can not move during the zoom lens, and I have to move, the power again. Turn Astro IS function, and probably most of the AF as well. Go to high DS cartridge. My 2GB still occupies too fast on a good night shot. Thanks to the first answer, in reality for the digi-t for my G-7, so you can make planetary video. My 40D direct link does a good job for everything else so far.

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