Multi Coated Circular

Multi Coated Circular

Closing and opening an existing chimney

It is also advisable to cap the chimney with a vented cover, which will allow air inside and outside, but not water. The advantage of C-cap is not escape, and can be installed in the second. Your chimney is protected from the elements and nesting birds the fireplace … Ventilated caps Caps not leak and mix with the pots to keep the traditional look of the stack.

First measure the opening in square meters and multiply by 60. This will tell you how many bricks you need. (An average chimney measures approximately 400mm x 550mm or 0.4mx 0.55m Match …. 0.22 meters square x 60 = 13 bricks), you need a 9 inch x 3 inch air brick. Common bricks can be used for construction, since they are the cheapest.

The sand and cement is obviously necessary and this should be mixed at 4 sand to 1 cement for the construction of masonry … The same mortar can be used to render to cover the bricks below, but you have to get wet for application.

By means of a stack also have 2 "cramping" framework is usually attached to a door or window frame and installed in the brick joints.

These 2 however, will be connected and screwed to the inside the fireplace and built in brick under construction. (See diagram)

The factory work can now be built in openness, but suffers a back half of one inch from the current face of the plaster surrounding the fireplace. The air brick should be prepared but a bit to make your face flush with the existing plaster. You can check this by placing a spirit level across the opening. You must play both sides of the fireplace, and brick into the air.

The air must be brick in the center of the new brickwork and as low as you can get without it is masked by the council of new baseboard.

A & B represent positions within cramps.

When the brick is built, "rake" the joints in approximately 10 mm. This will give a good key for the render is applied when the brick is strong enough to withstand the pressure of your application.

In order to do, spread the sand and the cement as evenly as possible over the brick, preferably with a plastering trowel, but you can use the back of the palette used to put the bricks. When you think you have enough, use the spirit level, established through the opening as before, and "dragged" up. This will break all they do is "proud" of the existing plasterwork. You may have to apply a bit more to any depression, but to repeat the process ending with a section provided, it is flush with the existing plaster. Air brick, of course, will already be at this level.

You should now use a wooden or plastic float to rub the surface. Do this immediately after you finish the render. Allow to dry for a render time. This is ready to "delete" when you can move the buoy on the surface of the render without moving, but all are filled pinholes deposits rendering left on the palette. Rub in a circular motion, with steady, do not sign, the pressure and you will be left with a nice flat surface, which must be 2 or 3 mm below the existing plaster.

The new surface should now be "scratched." Use a nail and put light scratches everywhere. This is to give a good key for the last layer of plaster called "skim."

When you are buying skim milk, the majority of traders know what you mean, but his real name is multipurpose top layer of plaster. This must be mixed to a consistency very creamy (creamy liquid) and applied, using a spoon mason.

When addressing the issue, stop for a minute or two and level again. Repeat this 2 or 3 times (more if needed) and the trowel marks will disappear, as the cast becomes more difficult. Time is the essence of this type of plaster and did not have time shopping when this material is on the wall.

Its surface is complete and you can set the baseboards in place. title = "coffee tables" coffee tables>

Finally will a grill to cover the air brick. These can be found in shops Builders and DIY stores. They are either plastic or brass effect and can be screwed or glued in place.

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