Ring Tube Canon

Ring Tube Canon
Astrophotography with a 12 "Dobsonian telescope?

Can anyone give me much advice on how to take nice photos. Be Arnt large Dobs of the photo, but you can still try. I have a Canon Digital cam. I have the T-Ring and the wand for eyepeices. but when I take the shot as I concentrate, for example on the moon, when focusing the center of the moon is very clear, but the parties outside blury when I try to focus and make the center of the moon r blury outersides clear. How I can fix this ??????????????? THANKS a lot of guys and gals can tell me also what needs to be seen to do so and where get materials via the Internet.

It seems that there are eight issues that have to deal with. I'll start with the top four. Focus, focus, concentration and focus. Some people swear by motorized focusers, and software that is the focus. But here's another technique: I do not use a motorized focusing mechanism. I am taking an approach Stiletto help to drive the focus on all my OTA. I killed a bright star and replace the camera with the stylus. Focus until the lines disappear Ronchi, block focus and that's it. Remove the needle and replace it with the camera. I can not get my head around what the image – adjust things! I find it good practice to check approach if I move the scope to a new target a long way across the sky. I stop at a bright star on the road and make a check quickly. It really is quite simple. You must come my way one night and we can compare techniques. (Or you can go to a local astronomy club.) The other four are the problems monitoring, tracking, monitoring and tracking i mentioned? Getting a very good track mounting a 12 inch is difficult or expensive. But before spending gigabucks in a hill, try this: Write down your date of birth, near Polaris and shoot short. No follow-up. Your date of birth assembly must be constant. You can concentrate at the focus. Or, use a webcam in place. Take a large number of short presentations, and software stack, as RegiStax. Some of the boys in the club has two fields application. One for the visual work, one for photography. The visual range is a cube of light, like your 12 inches. The photography is often a very small APO refractor. The idea is that an assembly of a small lens is much, much cheaper. At the upper end, a man with a 80 mm Tak, he piggybacks on its 11-inch SCT. He gets stunning images of nebulae narrow band. He uses the SCT for monitoring. He uses the 80 mm for the image. Its filters allow in only a little light, so long exposures takes hours for red, green and blue (which are H alpha, 2 sulfur, and oxygen 3). They seem to Hubble Space Telescope images. Your installation may be taken for just $ 11,000. Did I mention? Got a couple of astrocameras SBIG. I have had a point and shoot Digital Camera to the eyepiece of my 10 "baby. Took 100 + photos and choose the best. Usually some of the shots will Luna. I have a few of showing Saturn's rings and moons, Jupiter's moons, the crescent of Venus, Transits of Venus and Mercury (with projection), the sun (with sunscreen). I took pictures of the comet Hale-Bopp (of when it was really bright) with a webcam and a telescope. While the moon looks very good, most of these images are at least a little disappointing. These cameras were not designed to do this, and it shows.

John Harrington-WHAT WE USE – Blimp:

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