Shoe Dual Axis

Shoe Dual Axis

Best Practices Motorcycle Braking

There are several things that affect your braking of bicycles and their ability to avoid or be towed thrown from the bike as a deep ball. Weight distribution, pavement conditions, the type of brake system, tire condition, suspension, and above all, the ability of the pilot.

First, we will consider allowing you to change anything about the speed and direction of their "moving object" – Two small patches of tire and road surface rubbing together. These few square centimeters are responsible for creating enough friction influence, or, ideally, control the movement of the object mounted on them. Traction Dictionary.com defines as "the friction between a body and the surface on which moves (as between an automobile tire and the road.) "What really makes a bike come to a standstill? This process involves, first, the element drive described above, in combination with the friction developed in the braking system which seeks to reduce the rate of rotation of the wheels (which, hopefully, together the road surface by that drive.)

Different types of braking systems. The most basic consists of front and rear brakes operate completely independent of each other. (For the purposes of this discussion, we will not consider biking or early harvest "choppers" who lacked the front brakes.) Typically, this involves controlling the front brake lever through the right handlebar and the rear brakes through the pedal right. A second plan is to have front and rear brakes linked together so that they always stop. There have been some variations on this theme. ABS is a third system that uses a computer and sensors to detect wheel slip of closure, then released and re-apply the brakes quickly to prevent skidding. Of course, this opens the possibility of combining technology integrated with ABS braking. This has been implemented in some high-end touring machines (and possibly more), however, the implications of this combination are being explored.

brake mechanisms, such as brake systems have also evolved. Disc brakes, which use a fixed rotor the wheel, in connection with a hydraulic clamp attached to the suspension have been shown to be the most efficient and therefore received the greatest attention the evolution. still used in some bikes lighter and / or for the sake of the economy, are often triggered by a mechanical rod or cable. This type of brake causes friction "Shoes" when pressed against a drum out – which is usually the hub. In the past 30 years I have experienced: drums front and rear front disc / rear drum, dual front disc and single disc rear with partial integration, and currently non-integrated ABS (dual front / rear single disc). I believe that every iteration has been a significant development step. Because each bicycle is bigger and heavier, so the progression in the braking power of physical forces. The response of the suspension to the drive train (either accelerating or braking the engine) will be different in a shaft-driven bicycle to a chain or belt driven machine. An engine crankshaft spins on an axis that is perpendicular to the wheelbase of the bike gyroscopic forces produce different one that turns on an axis parallel. There is so much diversity in the design of the motorcycle today that we can not hope to cover all the subtle nuances of any particular type, without irreparably more general reader bored to death. Instead, we would like to offer some general guidelines, with the hope of stimulating their thought process and encouraging you to each more in tune with your particular machine and its interaction with the world of the road.

An object in motion tends to stay in motion. This is learned in school. When applying the brakes, the bike riders want the burden and move forward. This means that the total weight begins to shift forward as you brake, turn want to lift the rear wheel effectively reducing its contact area, while pushing hard front tire in the road surface. Realizing this, only makes sense that, as the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF), the front brake is 70% + of your braking power and you should use your front brake more you want to slow down. In addition, MSF recommends that the use of both front and rear brakes, and if necessary, apply to the two drives, without locking them up. Do not tighten brake arms, just grip the bike with your legs and keep your arms free and relaxed. This is one of the "easier said than done" situation and needs implemented.

Now, before going on a tear on emergency braking to avoid the dreaded and deadly, possibly "high side," my Best interior parents will not rest without at least a passing mention of "Riding Defensive Tactics" as a precursor of the best "practices braking. Unless you have a death wish, a good part of their concentration while driving should be dedicated to avoid panic braking situations. (The "proverbial … more Prevention is better …") Try to avoid heavy traffic, have at least two escape routes in mind at any given time, not lead to more than 12 second line of vision, brake before the corners, and learn to stop, while in the corners without losing control of the bike, you know, all those things MSF. You do not know, maybe he did, but it has been quite a while? Maybe you should consider taking a course – what the hell, the worst that can happen is that you could learn something and save some money on insurance. At best, it could save your life! (Or mine, if I'm anywhere near you.)

If these mentioned do not sound very familiar, or automatically, even to you, please at least spend some time reading about, thinking, and finally, the practice of these tactics on the defensive when they are not particularly critics until they become automatic. Due to its location very definition a "panic" is one that I have literally no time to think and 'Automatic' reaction can absolutely make a difference of life or death.

Progressive braking:

This sounds like common sense, especially if you are traveling in a straight line, but the process becomes much less intuitive when you are on a curve and / or panic. The idea is to apply both brakes' pressure progressively "more value to an acceptable level of deceleration is obtained. If you are in a particularly braking relaxed, like approaching a red light or rolling through a deceleration lane to an exit ramp, you can also mix in a little engine braking through downstream changes. This transfers some of the wear and tear caused by the forces of deceleration in the braking system driveline and sounds good. I've seen the arguments for and against engine braking but in fact are outside the scope of this discussion, I am neither defending or condemning the practice.

True that the "line drive" was designed to "director" and the braking system is designed for braking, the second of these two is the destination of this article.

He leaned on a curve:

The best practice is enough to slow down before entering a curve to allow continuous acceleration through and beyond. Well, that's wonderful in theory, but unless you are in a closed circuit race, a path you have traveled hundreds of times before, or if you constantly drive as the proverbial "little old lady, you've probably found yourself in a little over the head at least occasionally. Although hardly recommend it as a good practice, it is possible to brake in a curve. I would say that you practice when you do not need to be prepared in case that you do. The suspension and characteristics of the drive of your machine will have a role here too, so you may want to seek advice from competition or highly experienced pilots of similar equipment. The key to all flavors of bicycles is to avoid sudden or violent transitions – either inside or outside the accelerator brakes, or gas to brake, or brake to throttle. Back off the throttle gently and apply the brakes smoothly and progressively.

If you is entering a stretch, as he leaned into a corner and braking, it is likely to be assigned to a "low side" before having an opportunity to any intervention. The same policy below applies to a rear wheel locked up – push down on the floor with the front brake if you have to more – PRESS RELEASE NO rear brake! (See below for the gory details.)

Traveling in a straight line:

At best of all possible worlds, if you travel in a straight line may be able to anticipate the need to slow down or stop (ie, approaching a red light) and fully minimized their need for aggressive braking, easing off the throttle and let the bike is not what is natural. Be careful, however, no surprise to motorists following (especially those of large SUVs) to stop abruptly without showing your brake lights – as may occur with reduction gears to engine braking.

When the need becomes more urgent deceleration due to changing traffic conditions or the need to stop for a curve, is in the main territory of "Progressive braking.

If you jam the front brake, you could start a streak that will make your bike away in the wheel slips under you. His front wheel close easily if you have ABS brakes, or if they have mastered the progressive braking, but this can happen quite easily (and quickly) to low speed if you encounter a manhole cover, steel plate, or other slippery surface. If you start to skid on the front wheel, release the brake for a moment and then to apply less pressure. The bike will turn in the direction of the skid itself. In the situation of very low speed, and only as a last instance, put a foot on the ground can allow you to catch the bike before passing that critical point. More than likely, however, this will happen so fast you would be best advised to try to get away rather than risk a foot, knee, or be caught by the weight of the beast.

If you turn on your system Rear brake has a greater possibility of locking the rear wheel, because it has less contact with the road surface as the weight shifts forward. If you start skating with his rear wheel things begin to happen very quickly and is now one of the most dangerous positions you can imagine. The best advice anyone can offer is – PRESS RELEASE NO BRAKE! Look straight forward and direct. If you go straight, you (hopefully) slip straight and can apply the front brake to reach the bus stop you need.

Consider for a moment, from the comfort and security of your desk chair, some of the dynamics that are involved here, and if we are lucky, you may never have that experience of the chair:

1) Once the rear wheel locks that have less traction than front wheel that keeps turning. Also any gyroscopic force of the rear wheel (which tend to help keep the bike upright) are gone.

2) With the combination of weight change interest and lack of traction on the rear wheel, the net effect is that the back of the bike to go faster than the front.

3) Due to the conditions described above, you may find your rear wheel to slide up next to you. His front wheel pointing forward, naturally becomes the skate. From here there are basically three ways in which things can go:

4a) I ride locked rear wheel, steering into the skid with the front wheel and keep the pressure on the front brakes. Facilitate the front brake slightly should allow the front wheel to return ahead of the rear wheel a bit while increasing pressure on the front brake tends to let the rear wheel more long period, eventually forcing the bike for the low side. "(The one nearest the side of the bike to the ground and facing slip)

4b) is imminent disaster and he wants to do everything possible to avoid a "high side." (See below 4c) Squeeze the front brake hard, which will decrease the front of the bike further. The rear wheel will move forward and actually force the bike on the low side. "If you go down, will the same direction as bike and away from you. If you have the appropriate protective clothing is probably not seriously injured. Your bike may have the most damage.

4c) The "Top." This is the worst possible case and also why should not release the rear brake, once it is locked. Your rear wheel is locked and sliding up next to you. His front wheel keeps turning in the direction of the skid, which is at a considerable angle to the line of the bike. For whatever reason, let the rear brake …

Immediately when the wheel starts to turn it earns a considerable amount of traction, but the friction surface and address rotation are essentially side with respect to the direction of the slide. In addition, the front axle can be a turning point in the direction of the slide, increased by applying the front brakes. The net effect is that the excavation of the rear wheel very sharply during the momentum of the slide path is combined with front wheel causing the whole bike violently breaking up and over the friction surface-ups in the rear wheel.

This plug violence is often more than enough to launch the pilot unfortunate equally violent in the direction of the slide. To make matters worse, the bike is also likely to become the air at about the same instant, the speed and direction. Once in the air, with nothing to slow it down … You can paint your own image, but the color life threatening.

When faced with an emergency situation, his instinct is to brake hard. Only vision, conditioning, and practice to be more thought provoking primer that any comprehensive guide. We do not pretend to be authoritative or comprehensive. There are any number of very good sources of information safety / defensive tactics be mounted on the web and in print, and are in the process of trying to make this site one of them. We would like to encourage thoughtful, awareness and safety practices on horseback provided whenever possible.

About the Author

Chuck has been riding motorcycles for 30 years, starting with dirt bikes. He currently owns a BMW K1200LT which he takes on adventures through the country on twisty windy mountain roads with his wife Trish. Chuck and Trish have a family owned motorcycle accessory store http://www.2WheelTouring.net